The PRObusta Movement

Every couple years or so there will be a small faction of coffee roasters attempting to introduce Robusta to their customers. In the past this was an endeavor to build familiarity with a coffee that is less expensive to purchase and more resilient to climate change. Companies were trying to groom customers to accept Robusta thinking this would eventually be there only option as Arabica yields decline. 

I began my coffee career in the rise of the 3rd wave however, my first adult coffee experience was in Italy. Espresso was a foreign concept to me at the time however the allure of the culture and the elegance was too much for me to shy away from. I expected it to be harsh and unpleasant and yet it was smooth, balanced and delicious. I couldn’t wait for my next one. The majority of Italian coffees have a percentage of Robusta in them; generally the further south you go, the higher the percentage. This is why I have never sneered at Robusta, it has always held value to me. 

Sahra Nguyen and I discuss Robusta coffee and entrepreneurship on the Food and Beverage Therapy podcast in 2023

Sahra Nguyen of Nguyen Coffee Supply has been the most significant advocate for Robusta, maybe, ever. The inspired element of her campaign has been that she does not put all its value on climate resilience and price. Instead, Nguyen focuses on Robusta, Vietnam Robusta specifically, for its unique character attributes and cultural significance. This approach struck a nerve in me and inspired my advocacy on an increased level. 

I was reminded of a culinary conversation I had with my brother, the chef. I was developing a custom coffee blend that was meant to be in the southern Italian style. I was trying to get there using all Arabica coffees and though my brother liked the blends I came up with he rejected them. He explained, 

“These are great coffees but it doesn’t matter, they’re not the right profile. My guests are being served testa (pork head), and trippa é pataté alla calabrese (stomach), they are adventurous eaters seeking authentic flavors. I can’t serve them this coffee.”

Once my ego recovered, it clicked and I understood the value of variety and specificity. Robusta was not just rice or pasta - a cheap filler for the blend. Robusta carries its own unique flavor attributes that appeal to an entirely different end of the flavor spectrum. 

Specialty Arabica coffee is judged and rewarded mainly on its acidity, clarity and cleanliness. Robusta often has little to no acidity and is often not considered clean in the cup. This is because we are judging it under the wrong rubric. Specific cupping forms have been made for Robusta however, this perspective has not carried over to the consumer yet. 

In January we launched the first Robusta offering in Gregorys Coffee history. The response was tremendous. We positioned the coffee as we would with any of our high-end single origin offerings. The Vietnam, Central Highlands Robusta was roasted in small batches to a medium-light degree to pronounce its natural character. We also decided to highlight the coffee further with its own signature drink, a Vietnamese Coffee drink using sweet and condensed milk. 

Gregorys Coffee promo for the Vietnamese Coffee using 100% Robusta.

I knew I wanted to bring in a Robusta coffee however, I didn’t have a defined profile in my mind. When I cupped the sample the first time and discovered notes of basmati rice, cashews and broth I knew I had something special. This was a savory coffee that was the complete opposite of all other coffees on our menu. Sharing this experience with our guests who are there to ‘see coffee different’ became very important to me. Greg loved the idea and the entire team rallied behind this coffee. 

Proudly packaged and priced at a premium

Collaborating with the marketing and F&B team was wonderful on this project. The signature drink turned out delicious and the visuals in-store and online told the story and put this coffee front and center. 

The proof was certainly in the pudding. This underdog coffee ended up being the best selling single origin offering we produced. It sold better than our Ethiopia ARDI and single estate Brazil. It was incredible. The response was so strong that we were invited by the Vietnam Heritage Center to serve this brew for their Tết celebration.  

Jake Leonti

Written by Jake Leonti, F+B Therapy 

Mr. Leonti has worked in coffee for over twenty-five years with disciplines at every link of the value chain from barista to roasting, green grading and importing. Jake is a columnist at Santé Magazine, member of the Roasters Guild and current Director of Coffee at Gregorys Coffee in New York City.